They want to improve farming, make wine with more precision and sell it for profits around the world rather than pennies locally, and they want to do it without compromising cultural traditions. Camuto succeeds in capturing southern Italy at just the right moment, when a younger generation, better educated and more worldly than their parents, is taking over. Not that the south has been immune, but it occurred to a lesser degree than in other regions. Camuto suggests, saving the south from many of the mistakes that have plagued other winemaking areas, like planting international grapes at the expense of indigenous varieties or adopting nontraditional winemaking techniques. This relative lack of organization slowed its march to modernity, Mr. Where others might, uncharitably, see solely a culture benighted by poverty, he is enchanted by its natural riches, the vitality of its people and its beautiful bureaucratic messiness that he sees as a saving grace.
As a journalist with family roots on the Sorrento Peninsula south of Naples, Mr.
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